![]() It sticks to the bit, retains heat and if it sticks near the cutting edge (as it does), then it doesn't cut as well. Like was mentioned, if you use an appropriate speed for the bit size and material.Īnd yes, laminations and MDF wear a cutter's edge faster than normal, real wood. If you keep the bit clean, without residue, they don't seem to retain as much heat and stay sharper longer.Īfter use, if you use a good diamond hone on them to touch them up. And if you use a little wax (like I use those wax sticks for double cutters), then it helps lube the cutters and keep things from sticking to the cutter. If I have a problem keeping heat down, then I coat the bit with Hylo Cool. ![]() Good extraction helps keep waste away, which in turn helps keep the bit cooler. ![]() But I watched how it was cutting, my feed rate and the depth of cut. Bits seem to last me a while longer than others I've worked with. I have had good luck with Onsurd bits for my CNC router and when it comes to the hand routers I had very little problems with CMT, Whiteside, Bosch and Amana. It was all about how fast they could get the product out the door and how much they could make in the least amount of time. These would last less than 10 lineal feet of cutting before they were dull again. Many shops used only a 200 stone and give you the cutter back. I could get as many as 4 resharpenings out of one bit so long as I didn't chip it. One of my biggest problems was finding a sharpening shop that would do a final clean up with atleast a 600 stone in the harpening process. I helped many guys by slowing the spindle speed they used and increased their cut feed rate to reduce the heat build up. I use to cut many lineal feet of solid surface (Corian etc) and that type of material is extremely abrasive to router bits and saw blades. The grade of carbide as well as the type of material you are cutting will also dictate life expectancy. As mentioned, feed and spindle speed are the governing factors to the life of any cutting edge.
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